Backcountry Snowboarding in Hokkaido: An Abandoned Resort, Plum Whiskey and an Icy Bust
My best and worst backcountry days in Hokkaido: 3,000 vertical feet at an abandoned resort near Iwanai, and a $310 guided day that got iced out.
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The short answer
My best day in Japan was a 3,000-vertical-foot tour of an abandoned ski resort near Iwanai, followed by plum whiskey by the fire. My worst was a $310 guided day that got iced out. Go with a guide, bring avalanche gear, respect resort boundaries, and keep your dates flexible.
About 3,000 vertical feet of climbing up an abandoned ski resort, as someone who is not a super experienced backcountry rider (just in shape), with plum whiskey by the fire waiting at the end. That was the highlight of my whole trip.
Backcountry was a big reason I wanted to go to Japan. I got two backcountry days in Hokkaido, and they could not have been more different. One was the highlight of the whole trip. The other was a total bust, lol.
Backcountry at an abandoned ski resort near Iwanai
Our first-week backcountry day was the highlight. We toured an abandoned ski resort near Iwanai, right next to Iwanai Resort, which runs cat skiing. Just be careful where you ride: the cat-skiing terrain is theirs, and you can get in trouble if you’re caught riding inside the resort.
The day ended up being about 3,000 vertical feet of climbing. It was pretty hard for me. I’m not a super experienced backcountry rider, I’m just in shape, but I did it.
The best part: afterward, you can go into the Iwanai Resort lodge, sit by the fire and have some plum whiskey at the bar. It was SO good.
The backcountry day that wasn’t
Our second backcountry day, with the group at the end of the trip, didn’t go so well. We booked a guided day with Hokkaido Backcountry Club (about $310 per person). Unfortunately, by then the conditions were pretty bad and icy. We basically went up the resort, came back down, and then went to a distillery and an onsen instead, lol. So that was kind of a letdown.
Honest truth: not every day in Japan is amazing. My first week was powder every day, and by the end of the trip it had gotten pretty crappy and I couldn’t wait to go home. Weather is weather, even in Japan. If backcountry is a big goal, try to keep your dates flexible, and go with a guide either way. Niseko has a gate system for leaving the resort, and conditions can change fast.
My backcountry setup
Here’s what I brought for backcountry days in Japan:
- Splitboard: Rossignol After Hours women’s splitboard (2022)
- Beacon: Black Diamond Guide BT avalanche beacon
- Shovel: Black Diamond Transfer shovel
- Probe: Black Diamond QuickDraw Carbon Probe 240
- Pack: Dakine Women’s Team Heli Pro 20L (Jamie Anderson)
- Board bag: Dakine Low Roller snowboard bag (port royale), which fit my whole setup and made it through every flight
Beacon, shovel and probe are non-negotiable, and practice with them before your trip.
Tips for backcountry in Japan
- Go with a guide or someone who knows the area, especially if you’re not super experienced.
- Bring a beacon, shovel and probe, and know how to use them.
- Respect resort boundaries. Near Iwanai, the cat-skiing terrain is off-limits, and in Niseko you leave the resort through the gate system.
- Keep your dates flexible. My first week was powder every day, and by the end of February it was icy.
- Be in shape. 3,000 vertical feet of climbing is no joke.
Hokkaido backcountry FAQ
Do you need a guide to ride backcountry in Japan?
If you’re not a very experienced backcountry rider, yes. A guide knows the local snowpack, the access rules and where you’re allowed to ride. Even experienced riders often hire a guide for their first day in a new zone.
Is Japan backcountry dangerous?
It can be. Japan gets huge amounts of snow, and avalanches happen here like anywhere else. Check the daily avalanche information (Niseko publishes it), bring a beacon, shovel and probe, know how to use them, and never ride alone.
What are the rules for leaving the resort in Niseko?
Niseko uses a gate system. You can only leave the resort through official gates when they’re open, and ducking ropes or going through closed gates isn’t allowed. Near Iwanai, the cat-skiing terrain belongs to the resort, so stay out of it unless you’ve booked with them.
How hard is the Iwanai backcountry tour?
Our day was about 3,000 vertical feet of climbing. It was hard for me as someone who isn’t super experienced in the backcountry, but I did it because I’m in shape. If you’re not used to skinning, train for it before your trip.
How much does a guided backcountry day cost in Japan?
Our guided day with Hokkaido Backcountry Club was about $310 per person. Prices vary by group size and operator.
Should I bring my own splitboard and avalanche gear?
I brought my own setup, and I’d do it again so I knew my gear worked. If you don’t own a splitboard, a lot of guide companies rent splitboards and avalanche gear, so ask when you book. Either way, get travel insurance that covers backcountry and rescue.
More from my Japan trip
This post is part of my three weeks snowboarding in Japan series. Start there for the full route, costs and what I’d do differently.
- Niseko guide: where to eat, drink and stay
- Hakuba and the Cortina dam run
- Traveling Japan with a snowboard
- Kyoto in 2 days
- Tokyo in 2 days
- Japan culture differences and common Japanese phrases
- How much my Japan snowboard trip cost
- How to get to Niseko from Sapporo
- Ikon vs Epic Pass for Japan
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Hi, I’m Lindsey. I learned to dirt bike in Virginia, have been snowboarding since the East Coast and surf whenever I can, and I write the trip guides I wish I’d had.
