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Niseko Guide: Where to Eat, Drink and Stay (From Someone Who Rode It for 2 Weeks)

Where to eat, drink, stay and soak in Niseko, plus night riding, food trucks and the $30 grapes I’m still thinking about.

Mt. Yotei behind a snowy road in Niseko

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The short answer

Niseko is the Vail of Japan: four connected resorts on the Ikon Pass, a town full of Australians, and food trucks as the main dinner plan. Eat ramen at Otsukisama, get cocktails at Bar Gyu (go in a small group), go night riding, soak in an onsen, and stay away from the $30 grapes.

My second arrival in Niseko was in the back of a taxi, refreshing my AirTag app nonstop. We’d scheduled our bags to be delivered to our Airbnb with Yamato, nobody from our group was there yet to accept them, and we’d missed our bus from the airport. So we jumped in a taxi (about $200) to make it in time. It was stressful, lol.

I spent two of my three weeks in Japan riding in Niseko: the first week with my friend Charlotte, and the last five nights with a big group of friends from my college ski and snowboard club. By the end, we had our go-to ramen spots, bars and food trucks figured out. Here’s everything I’d tell a friend heading there.

Niseko basics: the Vail of Japan

Niseko is basically the Vail of Japan. The mountain is amazing, with four connected resorts (Grand Hirafu, Hanazono, Niseko Village and Annupuri), and it’s on the Ikon Pass. Just know going in that it’s a town full of Australians, lol. It feels a lot less “Japan” than the rest of the trip, but the riding makes up for it.

Food on the mountain was surprisingly affordable. About $15 for lunch was the most expensive meal I came across at any of the resorts, which is wild if you’re used to US resort prices.

In town, the food trucks are basically the main source of food. They’re easy to get to and open pretty late, so they’re super accessible after a day of riding.

Just to show you how much it snowed: this is the same house in town in week one versus week three. There was SO much more snow that first week.

Night riding in Niseko

Definitely go night riding if you’re in Niseko. Riding at night while it’s snowing is so sick, and for me it felt really nostalgic. The only other time I’ve been able to do that was back on the east coast in Virginia, so it gave me this sense of comfort and familiarity, all the way across the world. Grand Hirafu has night riding, so you can keep going after the sun goes down.

Where to eat in Niseko

Also, keep an ear out for the sweet potato truck. It drives around Niseko playing a cute little song you can hear from far away. When you hear it, go find it.

One thing that surprised me in Niseko: grapes were $30 at the grocery store for some reason, lol. So stay away from the $30 grapes.

Shine Muscat grapes priced at 5,000 yen at a Niseko grocery store
The infamous $30 grapes.

Where to drink and go out

  • Bar Gyu: the bar with the fridge door entrance. It’s really popular, so a line forms outside, but the cocktails are very good. The tables are small, so go in a group of 3 to 5 people, max.
  • Niseko Confidential: one of my favorite bars there.
  • Bar Haku: a cool cocktail place.
  • Freddies: the party bar.
  • Hertzz: the nightclub, lol.
  • Bar Barunba: a small bar in central Hirafu known for its signature drinks and fun bartenders. They had a REALLY good signature drink, and I’ve had nothing like it. There are three: the Jet Li and the Bruce Lee are the same fruity, limey drink in a regular and a double, and the Bruce Willis is made with crazy-strong alcohol, so proceed with caution, lol.

Go to an onsen (seriously)

I almost forgot this one: go to the onsens! Soaking in a hot spring after a cold day of riding is the best, and there are a ton of them around Niseko. A few to look into:

  • Niseko Prince Hotel Hirafutei: a big public bath in Hirafu, about a 5-minute walk from the lifts.
  • Kiranoyu: an affordable spot near Niseko Station with a bunch of different baths.
  • Yukichichibu Onsen: a town-run onsen in Rankoshi with outdoor baths and a mud bath, about a 10-minute drive.
  • Niseko Grand Hotel: a classic onsen hotel with outdoor baths, close to the resorts.

Quick onsen basics: you go in naked (no swimsuits), shower and wash before you get in, keep your little towel out of the water, and check the tattoo policy ahead of time, because some places don’t allow them.

Where to stay in Niseko

Our group stayed at Chalet Billopp in Hirafu for five nights at the end of the trip. Fair warning if you’re a big group: you could hear the chairs squeak from the bottom floor. One night I asked everyone to be quiet, so naturally they dragged their chairs across the floor, slowly, for way too long. Honestly, it was so funny. During week one, Charlotte and I stayed at a friend’s place slightly out of town and had a van, which was GAME changing. Public transport is insanely good if you’re staying in one place, but a car gives you the flexibility to chase snow.

One thing nobody tells you about Hirafu: the town is built on a hill, and most of the houses are down at the very bottom. If you stay in the lower part of town, you’re walking uphill for about 15 minutes to get to the resort every single day, in your boots, carrying your board. If that sounds like a lot, book something higher up near the lifts or a place with a free shuttle. Or just call it your warm-up, lol.

Since you probably don’t have a friend with a hookup, here are a few affordable places in Niseko with really good reviews:

  • Pension New White Bear: a small guest house right in Hirafu village, with a public bath and ski storage.
  • Hotel LOGIN NISEKO: apartment-style rooms with a kitchen and washing machine in Kutchan town, plus free parking (handy if you get a car).
  • Ramat Niseko: a cozy lodge with a fireside lounge and a bar, about 5 minutes from Grand Hirafu on their free shuttle.

Where I stayed

Chalet Billopp

A chalet in Hirafu that worked well for a big group riding together all week. It’s not taking reservations on Booking.com right now, but it’s still listed through Japan Ski Experience. Otherwise, there are lots of similar chalets in Hirafu.

Hirafu, Niseko · Group chalet

How to get to Niseko

Most people fly into Sapporo’s New Chitose Airport (about 1.5 hours from Tokyo, roughly $70–200 one way), then head to Niseko from there. We took the plane to Hokkaido and then a bus or taxi (the taxi was the time we missed our bus and had to beat our Yamato bag delivery to the Airbnb). Your options from the airport:

  • Bus: the easiest budget option. About 3–4 hours and about ¥5,000–6,000 ($35–40).
  • Taxi: about 2 hours and about $200. Worth it if you split it with friends.
  • Train: to Kutchan, then a short bus. About 3 hours and around ¥2,900, but it’s longer with more transfers, which is a lot with a board bag.
  • Rental car: about 2 hours, roughly ¥5,000–15,000 a day. If you want to chase snow around Hokkaido, having a car is game changing.

Costs are rough, one-way, per person, and they change, so double-check before you book. Dollar amounts assume about ¥150 to $1.

Niseko FAQ

Is Niseko worth it for snowboarding?

Yes, if you want consistent powder and an easy, English-friendly ski town. You get four connected resorts (Grand Hirafu, Hanazono, Niseko Village and Annupuri) on one mountain, night riding, and amazing food. The trade-off: it’s very international and can feel less “Japan” than other places, and it’s pricier in town.

Which part of Niseko should I stay in?

Hirafu is the main village, with the most restaurants, bars, food trucks and nightlife, and it’s where we stayed with the group. Kutchan town is a short drive or bus away and usually cheaper, with bigger grocery stores. Hanazono and Niseko Village are quieter and more resort-y. If you want to walk to dinner and the bars, stay in Hirafu. Just know that most houses are at the bottom of the hill, so if you stay low in town, plan on a 15-minute uphill walk to the lifts each morning.

Is Niseko expensive?

The town can be (hello, $30 grapes), but food on the mountain was surprisingly affordable, about $15 for lunch max. Food trucks, ramen and 7-Eleven keep costs down. Lodging is the big expense in peak season, so book early or split a chalet with friends.

Can I use my Ikon Pass in Niseko?

Niseko United is on the Ikon Pass, and Hakuba Valley and Rusutsu are on the Epic Pass. Day limits are different for each pass and resort, so check yours before you go. If you don’t have either, buy lift tickets at the resort or online, and look at multi-day passes if you’re staying a while. More in my Ikon vs Epic for Japan guide.

Do you need a car in Niseko?

Not if you’re staying in Hirafu. You can walk to the lifts and restaurants, and buses connect the resorts and Kutchan. But if you want to explore other resorts like Rusutsu or chase snow around Hokkaido, having a car is game changing.

Can you snowboard at night in Niseko?

Yes. Grand Hirafu has night riding, and riding while it’s snowing at night is so sick. Bring clear or low-light goggle lenses.

How far is Niseko from the airport?

Niseko is about 2 hours by car from Sapporo’s New Chitose Airport, or about 3–4 hours by bus. A taxi is about $200, which saved us when we missed our bus.

More from my Japan trip

This post is part of my three weeks snowboarding in Japan series. Start there for the full route, costs and what I’d do differently.

Lindsey with her snowboard in Niseko, Japan

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Hi, I’m Lindsey. I learned to dirt bike in Virginia, have been snowboarding since the East Coast and surf whenever I can, and I write the trip guides I wish I’d had.

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